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About this Item:
Scalable capacity up to a colossal 90 kWh, sufficient for 1-month home backup, 1-unit of 7200-Watt output runs your entire home, supports a plug-and-play home solar system of 5.6 kW to 16.8 kW solar input, designed for personal customization
EcoFlow x-cooling cooling structure for superior heat dissipation performance, designed for prolonged lifespan boost performance with BMS reliable performance in the most challenging situations
120-Volt/240-Volt hybrid inverter, it has both high-voltage and low-voltage MPPT ports through the advanced structural design, the photovoltaic conversion efficiency of the high-PV input port is increased to 95% while the low-PV input port sports 89%, allowing homeowners to store and utilize more solar energy
Delta pro ultra employs x-tech, guaranteeing a total 7200-Watt output even during charging, delta pro ultra inverter’s high-voltage PV input port sports an inverter efficiency of 95% and 450-Volt
4-ways of different power generation: grid, solar, EV charger, generator, 1-way of multi-charge: multi-charge (grid plus solar)
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Graywind Smart Blinds: one-minute review
Graywind offers a wide variety of smart blinds, including zebra, panel track, vertical, Ventian, and wood blinds. They also have a variety of smart shades, including roller, Roman, cellular, dual, and more. They even have smart curtains. Within each category, you can choose from selection of sizes, fabrics, and colors.
Then you choose your motor from five options: Eve Apple HomeKit Motor, Rechargeable BLE RF Motor, Zigbee Alexa Motor, Matter Smart Motor, or Hardwired WiFi Motor. I selected the zebra blinds and the Eve Apple HomeKit motor, since I’d be using my iPhone and HomePod to control the blinds.
I can’t say that getting the Graywind Smart Blinds up and running was easy. The screws that were included for installation were not great quality, which meant that they stripped easily. Setup was also a little tricky. Still, I managed to get everything up and running. Once completed, the blinds work exactly as expected. You can set up scenes or automations which allow you to set opening and closing to a schedule or situation of your choosing. You can also control the blinds using your smartphone, voice, or just your hands.
(Image credit: Karen Freeman / Future)
Graywind Smart Blinds: price & availability
Starting price is relatively inexpensive
Can get pricey with upcharges
Custom fit to many sizes
You can order Graywind Smart Shades, Curtains, and Blinds directly from the Graywind website or you can buy them from Amazon. Prices start at $109.99 (£82.04/169.88 AUD.) I selected the zebra blinds in the charcoal blackout fabric and the Eve Apple HomeKit motor. I also added a solar panel and an extra-long wall charging cable. Blinds in the size and style you see in my photos go for $276.99(£206.59/427.97 AUD) each. It’s important to measure your windows carefully if you want the blinds to fit correctly. I chose the outside mount style and made my measurements accordingly.
Graywind Smart Blinds: design
Tricky installation and setup
Goes up and down smoothly and quietly
Blinds can get caught in solar panel charging cable
You’ll need to be pretty handy and have access to a drill in order to install the Graywind Smart Blinds. You’ll also need to be patient and careful, since the included screws are soft and strip quite easily.
Note that if you’re charging the blinds via the solar charger, the blinds can get tangled with the charging cord pretty easily. I’ve gotten around that issue by not opening the blinds 100%. But I shouldn’t have to do that.
(Image credit: Karen Freeman / Future)
Once you get the blinds installed and charged via solar panel or wall charger, you’re ready to set them up with your smartphone. I ordered two sets of identical blinds for windows right next to each other; I was able to set up the first one using only the Home app on my iPhone.
(Image credit: Karen Freeman / Future)
For some reason, I wasn’t able to set up the second set that way. I had to download the Eve app on my iPhone and set it up there. Once that was done, I was able to control both sets of blinds via either the Home or Eve app.
(Image credit: Karen Freeman / Future)
There is also a pull cord that you can use for manual operation, if you wish. One tug on on the pull cord gets the blinds moving in one direction, a second tug stops them, and a third tug gets them moving in the other direction.
Are these the most beautiful blinds I’ve ever seen? No, and the ‘fabric’ is plastic. But they look fine, and they do what they are supposed to do.
Graywind Smart Blinds: performance
Can be controlled so many different ways
Use with Google, Amazon, or Apple
Opening and closing mechanism works beautifully
As mentioned above, there are five different types of motors, so you’ll want to make your selection carefully. I chose the Eve Apple HomeKit motor, since I have both an iPhone and a HomePod. But you can also choose BLE RF Motor (works directly with the Graywind app via Bluetooth, no bridge needed), Hardwired WiFi Motor (no bridge needed), Zigbee Alexa Motor, or a Matter Smart Motor (which allows use of Alexa, Google, HomeKit or SmartThings). A detailed guide on the site can help you choose the right one for your home if you’re not sure.
As mentioned above, I was only able to set up one of the blinds using the Apple Home app; to set up the other one I had to use the Eve app. Another little blip was that one of the blinds wanted to roll the wrong way initially, but I was able to fix that by troubleshooting with the owner’s manual.
Once your blinds are all set up, it’s easy to control them. You can use your smartphone and tap to select how far open you want them, down to an exact percentage. You can also use the cord to control them. If you don’t like the look of the cord and you’re not going to use it, you can easily remove it.
(Image credit: Karen Freeman / Future)
You can also set up scenes and automations, so that your blinds open and close at specific times or in specific situations of your choosing. For example, you could have the blinds open at sunrise and close at sunset. Or, you can set your blinds to open when you say, “Good morning!” and close when you say, “Good night!” Or have them them close automatically when you leave the house and open when you arrive home. I just set mine to open and close to a specific percentage at a specific time. But there are endless ways you can set them up. I tried several different ways and they all worked great.
Should you buy the Graywind Smart Blinds?
Swipe to scroll horizontally
Graywind Smart Blinds score card
Attribute
Notes
Score
Value
They start pretty inexpensively for custom smart blinds
4.5/5
Design
Design is fine but there are some minor yet annoying flaws
3.5/5
Performance
Once you get everything set up, the blinds are simple to use and perform beautifully
4.5/5
Buy it if
Don’t buy it if
Graywind Smart Blinds: also consider
Want some other, similar options to check out? Here are a couple of TechRadar favorites to consider.
How I tested the Graywind Smart Blinds
I placed Graywind Smart Blinds in two bedroom windows. I tested out the blinds in a number of different ways. I tapped them open and closed using the Apple Home app, Eve app, and Control Center on my iPhone, both at home and away from home using a HomePod mini as a hub. I told Siri to open and close the blinds. I set up an automation to open the blinds a certain percentage 8:00 a.m. and close them at 9:00 p.m. each day. I also used the manual cord to open and close the blinds.
The latest update to the Home Assistant smart home powerhouse has introduced a new feature called the Ask Question action. The feature allows you to get your local voice satellite to ask you a question without you needing to speak to it first.
The voice satellite will then listen for one of a set list of responses and take action based on the response it hears, which brings the smart computers of science fiction one step closer.
Home Assistant Has a New Ask Question Action
The new “Ask Question” action that has been added in Home Assistant 2025.7 at first seems fairly simple. It’s an action specifically designed for voice satellites. These are devices that include microphones and speakers that you can use to trigger voice commands or to speak responses. They are the Home Assistant equivalent of smart speakers such as an Amazon Echo or an Apple HomePod. The devices aren’t “smart” themselves, however; they simply relay the audio to and from the Home Assistant server, where all the heavy lifting takes place.
Home Assistant
Before this update, it was already possible to trigger voice commands using a voice satellite, and you could also get the voice satellite to start a two-way conversation using the “Start Conversation” action. However, if you want to hold a complex conversation, this requires the use of a conversation agent such as OpenAI or Google Generative AI to interpret the conversation turns and generate responses.
The “Ask Question” action does exactly what the name suggests. It allows you to get your voice satellite to ask you a question and to listen to your response. It then compares your response with a predefined list of possible answers and takes the appropriate action based on the answer that it detects.
For example, at 11 pm, your voice satellite could ask if you want to turn off the bedroom lights. If you answer “yes,” “sure,” or “make it so,” the lights will be turned off, but if you answer “no,” “not right now,” or “negative” the lights will remain on.
Related
Home Assistant 2025.7 Has Arrived: Here’s What’s New
Your self-hosted smart home just got a bit better.
The “Ask Question” Action Has a Key Difference
Voice satellites could already ask you questions using the “Start Conversation” action, so why is the “Ask Question” action any different? The major difference is that “Start Conversation” requires the use of a conversation agent, such as Google Generative AI. This means that everything you say to your voice satellite gets passed to an LLM running somewhere in the cloud.
Adam Davidson / How-To Geek
The “Ask Question” action can run completely locally. Since you can provide the action with a list of predefined responses, the Speech-to-Text engine is only trying to match what you say with a limited number of responses. This is far less resource-intensive than recognizing every word in a conversation where you could say anything imaginable, meaning that it is possible for the processing to take place on your Home Assistant server.
Since the processing all takes place locally, you don’t have to worry about OpenAI or Google having access to everything that you say to your voice satellite, and you don’t need to pay for API usage, either.
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Want a Smart Speaker That Doesn’t Rely on the Cloud? You Might Be Waiting a While
Think your smart speaker only listens when you call it? Think again!
Why the “Ask Question” Feature Is a Game Changer
Aside from the privacy benefits, the major benefit of the “Ask Question” action is that it turns your smart home from being reactive into being proactive. Instead of always having to ask for things to be done, your smart home can start to ask you instead.
It’s thanks to this ability that this one simple feature can make my smart home feel more like the AI computers we’ve seen in science fiction. For example, HAL in 2001: A Space Odyssey will proactively ask Dave questions rather than Dave always having to start each interaction with HAL (although hopefully my Home Assistant server won’t go rogue and try to kill me).
Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer
For example, you can set up a goodnight routine that will turn off all your lights, close all the blinds, and lock your door, but if you forget to run it, none of those actions will be performed. With the Ask Question feature, you can have Home Assistant ask you if you want to run the goodnight routine if it detects that you’re in bed past a certain time, the lights are still on, and the door is unlocked. You can then choose whether or not the routine runs simply by responding to the question.
Using the Ask Question feature in this way means that the onus is taken off you to remember everything you need to do in your home. Instead, your smart home can be set up to monitor everything for you and to take the initiative to tell you if something is amiss.
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I love my smart home, but it can drive me insane.
A Few Ways You Can Use the Ask Question Action
How you use the Ask Question feature is really only limited by your smart home devices and your imagination. The official Home Assistant page about the 2025.7 update includes a video of someone using the Ask Question feature in their home. When they come downstairs, the voice satellite says that it’s hot outside and asks them if they want to close their shutters. The person responds with “sounds good,” and the shutters close. This is an example of how the Ask Question feature can be triggered based on conditions such as the current temperature and presence detection.
You could use the feature to alert you when your energy use is high and ask you if you want to power down any intensive devices. You could use it to alert you if a device such as an iron or hair straightener has been left on for a set period of time, and ask you if you want to turn it off.
You could use the feature to inform you if your child’s bedroom light is on after they’re due to stop reading and go to sleep, and ask if you want to turn the light off. If the air quality in your home drops, your voice satellite might ask you if you want to turn on the air purifier. If the garage door has been open for a set amount of time, it could ask if you want it to be closed.
One of my favorite automations is triggered by a motion sensor in the kitchen, and the first time I enter the room on a Friday morning, it tells me what type of trash needs putting out ready for collection that day. I can now update this automation so that it asks me if I’ve put the trash out, and if I say no, it can continue to remind me every time I return to the kitchen, until I’ve said that it’s done.
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How to Add a Smart Speaker to Your Home Assistant Setup
Apple and Google speakers play nice, while Amazon is left by the wayside.
What You Need to Use the Ask Question Action
In order to use the Ask Question action, you’ll need to be running the latest version of Home Assistant (Home Assistant 2025.7 or higher). You’ll also need a voice satellite that can speak the question aloud and listen for your response.
Home Assistant
There are several options for voice satellites. You can use the official Home Assistant Voice Preview Edition, which is a voice satellite designed by Home Assistant for local voice control. You can also build your own voice satellite using hardware such as the ESP32-S3-BOX or Atom Echo. You can even build a voice satellite using a Raspberry Pi and a compatible microphone and speaker.
Local Voice Isn’t Perfect, but It’s Getting There
The idea of being able to say goodbye to cloud-based voice assistants such as Alexa and Google Assistant and use your own local voice assistant is a very enticing one. Being able to use your voice to control your smart home without having to give up your privacy and personal data to do so is highly appealing. It’s possible to use a local voice assistant in Home Assistant, but it’s not perfect.
Nathaniel Pangaro / How-To Geek | Apple | Google | Amazon
You need powerful hardware to be able to handle speech-to-text processing without having to wait several seconds for a response. Even with powerful hardware, wake word detection can be spotty, especially if there is background noise, and for more advanced conversations, you’ll need to run your own LLM for things to remain local.
Until the state of local voice assistants improves, the Ask Question feature is a useful middle ground. The restricted list of potential responses means the speech-to-text processing only has to focus on a few possible words or phrases, so it can be much more accurate, even on less powerful hardware.
Related
7 Reasons I’m Ditching My Amazon Echo Smart Speakers
“Alexa, it’s time to go.”
Local voice still isn’t a perfect replacement for mainstream voice assistants, but it’s getting better. The Ask Question action gives me something that I’ve been lacking: the ability for the voice satellite to ask me the questions rather than the other way around. I don’t really like using voice commands for my smart home, but responding to questions with a quick answer is far more bearable, and really does make it feel like I’m living in the future.
There’s a special circle of hell that should be reserved for any company that thinks of filling its products with LEDs, particularly blue or green ones. They’re a complete and utter nightmare, yet so many companies think that bright lights are something normal and to be embraced.
As a smart home reviewer, my house is packed full of hubs, switches and smart devices. More than your average person, but even so, the number of devices I get that have irritating lights on them is slowly driving me crazy.
(Welcome to Smarter Life, our new weekly column from smart home tech expert David Ludlow. Each week, we will delve into the smart home world, past and present, analysing the biggest products and how they affect our lives.)
Red light, green light
Take the excellent Husqvarna AutoMower 305E Nera. It’s brilliant at cutting grass, but comes with a green status light that can’t be turned off.
During the day, the light’s barely visible; at night, the light shines so brightly it makes my garden office look like Minas Morgul from Peter Jackson’s Return of the King, home to the Witch-king of Angmar. Bathed in green light, the docking station is a green beacon in an otherwise dull night sky. But, why oh why must it do that?
There’s no option to disable the light in the app. It’s not as though Husqvarna is the only company with this problem. The Segway Navimow i105E had an option to dim the light, but that was it, while the EcoFlow Blade had no option to turn its green lights off at all.
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Humans are most sensitive to green light, which is why Dyson used this colour for its Fluffy Optic floor cleaner. If I’m cleaning my house and want to see whether I’ve missed dust, I definitely want to see what’s going on; if I’ve got a robot lawn mower plugged in, I really don’t want it lighting the garden up.
Aside from the fact that these status lights are a complete waste of electricity, the green light is also exceptionally distracting.
That’s as true with chargers. I love the Stoov line-up of products, such as the Stoov Ploov Heated Cushion. All of the devices ship with a charger that has a red LED that lights up while the battery is charging, but it turns green when the battery is full.
When it’s red, you can barely see the light (humans are much less sensitive to red light); as soon as the battery is charged, a dark room lights up like a Heathrow landing strip. It’s annoying, it disturbs sleep, and it seems pointless.
Green LEDs are used everywhere. Get a network switch and it will have a green status light to show a connection, and a secondary flashing light that shows activity. Typically, there’ll be a bank of night-piercing, irritating lights and many switches don’t let you disable the lights.
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Blue LEDs aren’t any better, and there are many devices that use blue lights for standby indicators. Blue, like green, lights up a room in a way that a red LED doesn’t.
Ditto for regular white lights, too. I’ve got a Roborock Saros 10 in my bedroom for cleaning, but it has white lights that can only be dimmed, not turned off. That’s OK in a hallway or kitchen most of the time, but in a dark bedroom, the lights are way too bright.
Electrical tape is your friend
I’m not against status lights, per se. They often offer a useful guide as to whether something’s working or not. A TV with a red status light shows that there’s power to the screen, for example, or a remote that lights up a red light when you press a button shows that it’s working.
In fact, removing status lights can be as annoying as having them too bright. If you’ve got any kind of MacBook that won’t turn on, the lack of status lights means that you can’t tell if the laptop’s on but the screen’s not working, or if the entire thing is dead.
My workaround for a lot of devices is a trusty roll of black electrical tape, stuck liberally over any offending light source. It works but it feels like a manual step too far, and manufacturers need to do better.
Better options
Most importantly, any kind of smart device should have an option to turn off all status lights completely, or at least disable them during certain hours. X-Sense smart smoke detectors have this very option: they flash to show they’re working at normal hours, but have an optional night mode that turns off the lights at night.
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Next, the default option should really be to only have a status light when a device is starting up, so you can see that it’s working and, for example, connecting to the internet. Then, once working, the lights should turn off.
Then, status lights should only turn on if there’s an error, so you can quickly see if there’s an issue.
Finally, could manufacturers not default to using green or blue LEDs in products, particularly those outside or those designed to be used in bedrooms? The exception is anything that’s used manually, such as a cordless lawn mower with a green LED to indicate it’s on and ready to go. This is acceptable, as the lights turn off when I turn the machine off after cutting.
I seldom sleep in the same place for more than a couple of weeks at a time, so I’m a big fan of portable all-in-one projectors. They’re small and set up quickly, making them ideal for vanlife, gaming parties, outdoor movie nights, or an evening in on the couch — but they usually sacrifice quality for convenience. Anker’s new Nebula X1 projector promises to produce an incredibly bright and color-accurate 4K image with excellent sound while remaining portable and quiet.
Typically, if portability is at the top of your wish list, then sound and picture quality will suffer. Prioritize a cinematic experience and you’re looking at an expensive, hulking, noisy device that requires permanent placement inside a home theater. Over a month of testing across endless firmware updates and a variety of viewing conditions, the Nebula X1 did a superb job of striking the right balance with very few tradeoffs, delivering on Anker’s promise.
But with a price starting at $2,999, or $3,998 for a kit that includes the highly recommended satellite speakers, it’s not exactly cheap. And at close to 25 pounds (11.3kg) for the entire bundle — the Nebula X1 is more luggable than portable.
$2999
The Good
Unbelievably bright
Excellent image on a variety of surfaces
Incredible sound for a portable
Automatic everything with manual overrides
Netflix works out of the box
The Bad
Expensive
4.1.2 channel separation is trash
Satellite speakers can drop connection
Large and heavy for a portable
The Nebula X1 is a 3500 ANSI lumen triple-laser 4K projector with integrated four-speaker sound system. It runs Google TV so you get built-in Chromecast, Google Assistant, and an official Netflix app (unlike many all-in-one projectors) that streams media over Wi-Fi 6. It includes a pair of USB and HDMI 2.1 ports (one supporting eARC) to attach your favorite game console or media drive. A satisfying, recessed handle pops up with a push to make the 13.7 pound (6.2kg) projection unit portable.
There’s a long list of features that make the X1 unique for a portable projector:
An all-glass 14-element lens that won’t yellow over time, mounted onto a 25-degree motorized mechanical swivel that avoids inferior digital tricks while increasing placement options.
Liquid cooling that all but eliminates noise.
Optical zoom coupled with a 0.9:1 to 1.5:1 throw ratio gives you giant images, up to 300 inches diagonally, when placed closer to the screen than typical projectors.
Class-leading 200W of sound when adding Anker’s highly recommended 80W battery-powered, water-resistant, Wi-Fi-connected speakers.
Note: I did my best with the photographs, but they can only approximate the brightness, color, and contrast viewed with the naked eye.
This 4K Dolby Vision Netflix stream was delivered over Starlink onto a 90-inch projection screen from 7.5 feet (3.5m) away, just after sunset. Photo by Thomas Ricker / The Verge
This 32-inch YouTube image projected onto a glossy folding Ikea table was actually too bright.Photo by Thomas Ricker / The Verge
This large image was watchable mid-day even when viewed on an ALR screen next to a wall of floor to ceiling windows.Photo by Thomas Ricker / The Verge
The X1 struggled at times to find the maximum screen size on this white wall, and delivered about a dozen firmware updates over my month of testing.Photo by Thomas Ricker / The Verge
I’ll just say it: the X1’s image quality is unmatched for a go-anywhere all-in-one projector. Its 3500 ANSI lumen output is better than many home theater projectors, allowing it to produce a vivid image across a range of challenging environments with no apparent optical distortion. It looked great at default settings when tested in a variety of lighting situations on painted walls, a traditional white-matte pulldown screen, a gray Ambient Light Rejection (ALR) screen, and a small folding Ikea tabletop.
The X1 will attempt to dynamically balance the colors and contrast on whatever surface it detects. Mostly it works, but colors, especially reds, tend to be over-saturated out of the box, making Gwyneth Paltrow’s face overly ruddy, especially on my ALR screen. Anker offers plenty of manual overrides to dial in the exact image you prefer with just a few minutes of work.
The X1’s lumen count made casual viewings possible in spaces flooded with ambient light. At times, I found the image to be too bright, especially when all that light was focused into a 32-inch diagonal on a glossy Ikea panel from just five feet (about 1.5 meters) away. Fortunately, you can manually reduce the power and iris settings to dim the image. That class-leading brightness makes the X1’s HDR10 and Dolby Vision support more than just checkmarks on a sales sheet — color is mostly accurate with plenty of contrast, but it’s still a DLP projector, so don’t expect true blacks. The X1’s lumen count should also do a decent job with 3D if you own DLP 3D glasses (I did not test this).
The auto-placement feature takes about 20 seconds to scan the area before choosing the best location.Photo by Thomas Ricker / The Verge
The X1 found a perfect fit on this folding Ikea table about 90 percent of the time, always offering a quick manual override to adjust.Photo by Thomas Ricker / The Verge
Importantly for a portable, the Nebula X1 features all the automatic placement features you’d expect. These include automatic focus, keystone correction, and obstacle avoidance, as well as automatic color adaptation to optimize the image based on the color of the paint or material used on the projection surface. These can be triggered manually from the device, Nebula app, or remote control, or set to engage at startup and when the projector is moved.
Autofocus worked 100 precent of the time, while the automatic placement features worked well when there was a clear border. I had to manually correct the edges more often than not when projected onto a blank white wall.
Startup is relatively fast. You can begin navigating Google TV in about 45 seconds from a cold boot, or just a few seconds if resuming from standby.
There’s also an “Extreme” game mode that disables digital keystone correction and motion smoothing to devote all that background processing to faster response times. For casual game play, the very slight lag is something you quickly get used to. The bundled mics, I can confirm, are fun for karaoke nights.
The status light on the satellites can be dimmed or disabled. Red means the battery is getting low. Photo by Thomas Ricker / The Verge
The legs can be folded down and a flap protects the USB-C charging port from dust and rain. There’s also a tripod mount.Photo by Thomas Ricker / The Verge
Sound is the killer feature of the Nebula X1. Even without the satellites, the sound is clear and immersive and easily fills a room. Connecting the optional battery-powered satellite speakers over a direct, low-latency 5.8GHz Wi-Fi connection to the main unit takes things to another level.
The satellites link automatically at startup and transform the X1’s four internal speakers into a makeshift subwoofer, while the three speakers in each satellite take over responsibility for center, top, and side channels. The resulting soundscape is wide and impressive and plenty loud enough for a group to enjoy outdoors — so long as you have accommodating neighbors. There’s also a “Bluetooth Speaker Mode” that turns off the projection lamp to play music with plenty of bass when full, rich, warm audio is all the entertainment required. I used this feature several hours a day which helps to maximize value for money.
With the audio turned down the projector is largely silent thanks to its liquid cooling. The fan kicked in on an especially hot day of testing, but I could barely hear it (measuring just 26dB from a distance of 1 meter) over the regular din of a living room or waves crashing beyond.
As expected, the X1 did not deliver on the promise of 4.2.1 surround sound. I struggled to hear any simulated channel separation from overhead or behind. Anker lists some strict placement requirements that I couldn’t meet exactly in testing — you might have better luck. Those satellites also dropped connection occasionally requiring manual intervention that sometimes resulted in an audible pop. It’s a little annoying, and has improved with each firmware update.
I saw 19 hours of battery life from those satellites (the projector does not have a battery) in my testing. That included two hours of film watched outdoors at a loud 50 percent volume, and the rest spent vibing to music at a relaxed 20 to 30 percent. Those IP54-rated satellite speakers even survived a small rain shower when I forgot them outside once.
1/16The sound and image quality are truly spectacular.
Overall, I don’t have any real complaints. Sometimes the automatic image placement features can miss the mark, but I find them far more useful than annoying. Sometimes the satellite speakers don’t pair properly, but that can be quickly fixed with a power toggle. The Google UI verges on sluggish at times, but it’s faster than any other portable implementation I’ve tried. And I’ve seen far too many firmware updates, but things keep improving.
Anker’s Nebula X1 has left me utterly impressed. It produces incredibly immersive sound for its size, alongside a bright, vivid image comparable to home theater projectors costing closer to $5,000. The Nebula X1 with the satellite speaker bundle is expensive at $3,998, but anyone who finds themselves in need of a projector that can quickly approximate a home theater experience anywhere they go will get their money’s worth.
The Epson Home Cinema 5050UB is a serious home theater projector for serious home theater enthusiasts. It features a motorized lens with horizontal and vertical lens shift, plus ample zoom. Its 4K enhancement technology offers lots of detail. Its biggest benefit over less expensive 4K projectors, however, is an excellent contrast ratio for deep, dark shadows and bright, popping highlights.
Like
Superb overall picture quality
Excellent contrast ratio
Motorized lens
Ample lens shift and motorized zoom
Don’t like
Could be quieter
Chonkers
There are only a few disappointments, and they’re minor. It doesn’t quite have the color or razor-sharp detail of its direct competitor, the LG HU810P. That’s not to say the 5050 isn’t sharp and colorful. It is, just a bit less so — although I liked the Epson’s overall picture quality a lot more than that of the LG. The 5050UB is also an absolute unit, several times larger than most of the projectors I’ve reviewed in the last year (including the LG).
In sum, the Home Cinema 5050UB is an excellent all-around projector that looks fantastic with all content. It offers a significant step up in picture quality over less expensive projectors, like the Optoma UHD35, and costs a lot less than something like the Sony VPL-VW325ES. It even gives its more expensive, laser-powered sibling, the LS11000, a run for its money. More on that below. Overall, the Epson 5050 is my go-to choice for anyone with a dedicated home theater who wants a projector worthy of the space.
Editor’s note, November 2022: For its excellent picture and value, we’re once again giving the 5050 our Editor’s Choice award. While the laser-powered LS11000 offers some additional benefits and performance over the 5050, it’s also a lot more money.
The 5050UB is a 4K- and HDR-compatible projector. As such, it can accept 4K and HDR signals, though keep in mind that no projector can do HDR very well.
Like all Epson projectors the 5050UB uses an LCD light engine, not the DLP that’s found in most other projectors. The ones used on the 5050UB are not technically 4K native resolution. Instead, they’re a technology called “4K enhancement” that “shifts each pixel diagonally to double Full HD resolution,” according to Epson. This is done very quickly, so it’s just a higher-resolution image to the eye. Here’s a deeper dive into the technology. The short version: It looked plenty sharp to me, if not quite as razor-like as the DLP-powered LG; see below for details.
One of the 5050’s most notable features that sets it apart from less expensive projectors is a motorized lens. This offers ±96.3% vertical and ±47.1% horizontal movement, which should be enough to let the 5050 fit in just about any home. There’s also a significant motorized zoom of 2.1x.
Watch this: Six things to know about home theater projectors
Epson claims the 5050UB can produce 2,600 lumens. I actually measured slightly more than that… in the less accurate Dynamic color mode. In the more accurate Bright Cinema mode I measured roughly 192 nits, or about 1,732 lumens. This puts it among the brightest projectors we’ve ever measured.
Lamp life is on the low side. Even in the Eco mode, Epson rates it at up to 5,000 hours. Some projectors of similar brightness we’ve reviewed in the last year were capable of upward of 15,000 hours in their most lamp-conserving modes. That said, 5,000 hours is still over three years of use at four hours a night.
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Connectivity
HDMI inputs: two HDMI 2.0
PC input: Analog RGB
USB ports: 2
Audio input and output: No
Digital audio output: No
Internet: LAN
12v trigger: Yes
RS-232 remote port: Yes
Remote: Backlit
Both HDMI inputs are HDMI 2.0 and can accept up to 4K60. As you might expect from its intended use as a projector for a dedicated theater, it lacks an audio out. Epson assumes, rightly in my opinion, that anyone getting a 5050 would have a traditional projector arrangement with either a receiver or at least a soundbar for audio.
Along the same lines, there are lots of control options for home automation systems, including a 12-volt trigger, RS-232 and a LAN port.
The remote is a big boy (just like the projector it controls) and has a pleasant amber backlight. If you have a 2.35:1 screen, as I do, you might reach for this remote for more than just on and off, since you can zoom the projector and fill the screen with 2.35:1 content without getting off the couch. That’s always a bonus.
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Picture quality comparisons
LG HU810P
The LG HU810P is the most notable competition for the 5050. They’re the same price but the HU810P uses newer technology, namely two lasers and a phosphor instead of the 5050’s more traditional lamp. I connected both using a Monoprice 1×4 distribution amplifier, and viewed them side-by-side on a 12-foot-wide 1.0-gain screen.
Right off the bat, both are great projectors, but their strengths and weaknesses are almost polar opposites.
As far as light output goes, they’re very similar. In their respective most accurate modes, the LG can do 166.3 nits to the Epson’s 192. Objectively, that’s a fair bit of difference, but subjectively, side-by-side, they both just look bright. So we’ll call that more or less a tie.
Color, though, goes to the LG. The lasers, with help from a phosphor, are absolutely deeper and richer. Throw on some HDR content and the deep crimson reds and vibrant purples are far beyond what the 5050UB can produce. This is sort of like saying a Porsche is slower than a Ferrari, however, since the 5050UB is no slouch in the color department. On its own it looks great, the LG in this regard looks better.
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It’s a similar story with detail. The LG uses a 4K DLP chip to create an image, and detail is that technology’s main strength compared to LCD with pixel shifting, which is what Epson uses. The image just looks a little sharper, especially with motion. However, if you’re not watching them side by side, I’m not sure you’d notice. The 5050UB certainly doesn’t look soft, it’s definitely 4K to my eye.
The next aspect of picture quality is where the tide turns toward the Epson by a lot. In a word, or technically two: contrast ratio. Even without using its iris, the native contrast of the 5050UB’s three LCD chips is significantly higher than the LG — 10times higher. So the image has significantly more punch and is less washed out. Even if you dial the LG’s lasers and iris back as much as possible, it only just matches the Epson’s black level while that projector is in its brightest and most color temperature-accurate mode.
Which is to say, the Epson’s black levels are roughly the same while at the same time (in the same mode) it is capable of having highlights or bright parts of the same image that are seven times brighter than when the LG’s lasers are dialed all the way down and the iris is closed. Flipping that around, if you match their light outputs, the Epson’s black levels in the same mode are nine times darker.
Geoffrey Morrison/CNET
What does this look like? An easy example is watching any movie with letterbox bars. If I set the projectors to be roughly the same brightness overall, the letterbox bars on the LG are gray. If I match their letterbox bars by reducing the LG’s laser power and closing its iris, it ends up looking dim compared to the Epson.
So when watching any content, the deep blacks of the 5050UB, while maintaining bright highlights, make for an extremely pleasing image.
Comparison to the Epson Home Cinema LS11000
While reviewing Epson’s own LS11000, I compared it to the 5050. The LS11000 is $1,000 more expensive, and uses a laser instead of the 5050’s UHP lamp. Since there will be no lamp replacements for the life of the projector, the total ownership cost difference between these two projectors is less than it initially appears.
The Epson LS11000.
Geoff Morrison/CNET
Sharpness is one of the most noticeable differences between these two. The LS11000’s pixel shift quadruples the pixels from its 1080p chips, so it’s 1080pX4 compared to the 5050’s 1080pX2. So between those two projectors the LS11000 is definitely sharper, which makes sense because it has twice the resolution. Both are less detailed than a 4K DLP, but sharpness is that technology’s biggest strength.
Contrast is a different story, and a surprising one. I measured the 5050’s contrast ratio at 5,203:1 vs. the LS11000’s 1,808:1, which is significantly worse. Even the LS11000’s dynamic contrast is lower, where the laser power tracks the brightness of incoming video signal and adjusts accordingly. However, this mode is more useful on the LS11000, since this adjustment happens pretty much instantly, far faster than the mechanical iris on the 5050. So even though the numbers suggest the 5050 blows the LS11000 away, subjectively and side-by-side they’re fairly comparable. That’s impressive, especially since the 5050 is cheaper and far older.
With SDR the LS11000 looks a little better and has more natural color. With HDR the LS11000 does a better job reproducing a wider color gamut. However, the difference isn’t huge in either case.
Geoff Morrison/CNET
All told, the LS11000 is a diagonal step from the 5050. Overall it does look better, but not the 25% better implied by its price. However, if you include the “total cost of ownership,” which in this case means $330 lamps every 2.5 years or so with the 5050, the price is eventually roughly the same. So with a bit better performance and that laser keeping the ownership costs in check, the LS11000 is worth considering if you’re looking at the 5050, despite being, on paper, $1,000 more expensive.
For more, read our in-depth Epson Home Cinema LS11000 4K laser projector review.
Charge your friends admission
The Home Cinema 5050UB is an excellent projector. At $3,000 it’s certainly not cheap, but for those looking to buy a PJ for a dedicated home theater or a light-controlled living room that can do its black levels justice, the image quality is definitely a step above less expensive projectors. Is it, say, over twice as good as the $1,300 Optoma UHD35? Perhaps. The Optoma is very good for the price, but that’s certainly the caveat: “for the price.” It holds its own, but it has a way worse contrast ratio and doesn’t handle HDR nearly as well as the Epson.
I think most people would be perfectly content with the UHD35. But for enthusiasts looking for a more “home cinema” experience the… oh wait, I just said the name of the thing in the thing. Let me try that again. For those looking for a more “home theater” experience, the Epson Home Cinema 5050UB does just about everything right and looks fantastic.
Geek Box
Test
Result
Score
Black luminance (0%)
0.046
Average
Peak white luminance (100%)
192.3
Good
Derived lumens
1732
Good
Avg. grayscale error (10-100%)
7.624
Poor
Dark gray error (20%)
6.223
Average
Bright gray error (70%)
7.432
Poor
Avg. color error
3.636
Average
Red error
3.527
Average
Green error
2.199
Good
Blue error
4.345
Average
Cyan error
5.111
Average
Magenta error
2.461
Good
Yellow error
4.173
Average
Avg. saturations error
8.34
Poor
Avg. color checker error
8.5
Poor
Input lag (Game mode)
28.4
Good
Measurement notes
I found the Bright Cinema color mode offered the best combination of light output and accuracy. In the six-color temperature mode, the 5050UB was pretty spot on D65 across the grayscale range. In addition, all primary and secondary colors were spot on their Rec. 709 targets. This is one of the most accurate projectors we’ve reviewed in the last year.
The native contrast ratio was excellent for a projector, with an average of 5,203:1 across various modes. For comparison, the second best contrast ratio we’ve measured recently was the BenQ HT2050A with a native contrast ratio of 2,094:1.
With the lamp mode (called Power Consumption) set to High and the iris off, the 5050UB puts out an impressive 192.3 nits, or roughly 1,732 lumens. The Eco mode drops the light output by about 30%. If you turn on the iris, which opens with bright images and closes with dark images, the dynamic contrast ratio rockets up beyond 100,000:1.
While the Bright Cinema mode looked better overall, the Cinema mode offered wider colors for HDR content. However, it was also much dimmer. I didn’t find the ~10% greater color gamut for ~60% less light to be a worthy trade-off, but feel free to check it out. The contrast ratio was about 40% better in this mode as well, which was only slightly noticeable.
If you need even more light, the Dynamic color mode puts out an impressive 323.6 nits, roughly 2,914 lumens, though the overall image isn’t as good or accurate.
If you have elected for a robot vacuum with mapping capabilities, it usually gives you the option of a quick mapping run without cleaning. It might seem like a waste, but it does save time in the long run. Use the mapping run to take a quick walk around your house and look for dangling shoelaces, wired headphones, or any long strings or fringes that will trip up the smartest robot vacuum.
And turn on your lights. Your robot might have optical sensors, which require ambient light to operate. If you find that your vacuum is getting stuck a lot, don’t schedule your cleanings at night. (Try 9 am, which is when my vacuum is usually scheduled.) If you have a dog, cleaning right after you leave will also give your pup less time to have an accident on the floor.
Nowadays, your robot vacuum will also ping you if it has navigation issues. In my house, dust often gets on top of the optical sensors, which can be removed by wiping with a soft cloth.
Empty the Bin
Yes, unfortunately, a robot that routinely digs into the yuckiest corners of your house will need a little routine maintenance. More than a few people have complained to me that their robot vacuum doesn’t work and just drags dirt around. If yours is doing this, then the bin is probably full. A robot vacuum’s dust bin is pretty small. Most robot vacuums have a bin size of around 0.6 liters. The dust bin on my Dyson ball vacuum is twice that, and I still need to empty it from room to room.
Dealing With Clogs and Clots
Many robot vacuums now come with tiny tools embedded inside the body of the vacuum that make routine maintenance slightly easier. I also keep scissors and, er, poking tools (a chopstick) on hand for cutting through hair or yarn that has snarled a roller brush or to push an obstinate Lego through the vacuum chute on a self-emptying bin.
I do have to say here that robot vacuums are not unique in this regard; these are all problems that have befallen my handheld push vacuum. I have yet to come across a robot vacuum problem that could not be solved with a few minutes of routine maintenance (well, and the occasional factory reset).
Divide and Conquer
Photograph: Carol Yepes/Getty Images
Ideally, you’d automate your robot vacuum’s cleaning cycles, not give it another thought, and come home to a clean house every day thereafter. But as helpful as robot vacuums are, they cannot pick up your kid’s 1,000-piece puzzle set for you or put away the dirty laundry that you’ve left in a pile on the floor.